Journey to Vilafamés: Where Art, History, and Community Collide in a Museum's Enduring Embrace
- Small Wonders Travel
- Jan 21, 2024
- 4 min read
Updated: Jan 22, 2024
Embarking on the road less traveled often leads to the discovery of hidden treasures, and today, we invite you to join us on a heartfelt journey to the picturesque hilltop medieval village of Vilafamés. Nestled in the province of Castellón, Spain, Vilafamés stands proudly as one of Spain's prettiest villages, offering an enchanting blend of history, art, and the kind of meaningful luxuries that make travel truly unforgettable.
Vilafamés is one of those places that will simply surprise you, leaving you wondering why you haven't heard of it before. With its Moorish origins and charming old quarter, the village transports visitors to a bygone era. Its narrow, zigzagging streets, crowned by a castle at the top and a small church at its feet, tell the rich tale of its history. Despite its small-town charm, with a population of under 2000 inhabitants, Vilafamés feels like a boutique town, inviting travelers to explore its beautiful buildings, winding streets, and the stunning landscape that embraces it.
While Vilafamés may be small, its offerings are far from modest. The village's ancient roots, dating back to the 11th century, have shaped its unique character. The old part of Vilafamés, with its whitewashed houses adorned with vibrant plants, resonates with the ambiance of a place where time stands still.
Our journey takes an exclusive turn as we explore the “Museu d'Art Contemporani Vicente Aguilera Cerni" (MACVAC). Housed in a restored 15th-century Gothic palace, this museum showcases one of the most significant contemporary art collections in all of Spain.
What makes this museum truly exceptional is not only its remarkable building and content but also its story and profound connection with the villagers themselves. It can be said that the museum saved the old town from abandonment and decline, and, at the same time, it wouldn't exist without the support of the people from Vilafamés.
The museum's inception in 1968, spearheaded by art critic Vicente Aguilera Cerní, marked the beginning of a cultural renaissance for Vilafamés.
Aguilera Cerní was looking for the perfect setting for a beloved and transformative project that would not only become the focal point of his life but also his enduring legacy: one of the first and most important contemporary art museums in Spain. He found it while visiting his uncle in Vilafamés. The locals welcomed the idea, and the inseparable bond between the museum and the village was born.
What made this project truly unique was the stipulation that all artists wanting their works displayed in the museum had to be from the town or have a home in Vilafamés.
Adding to this extraordinary tale is the village's resilience after being heavily bombed in 1938 during the Spanish Civil War. The houses in the upper town were pretty much destroyed and they had no water or electricity. Most of the people had moved to the more comfortable newer lower town. Many others had left for the cities.
The pre-war population of about 4000 was now below 2000. Many artists, eager to contribute to the project, bought and restored old houses with the help of the villagers, creating a powerful sense of community.
The first exhibition was held in 1969, displaying 15 works of art in what was then the Wine Museum. The Museum of Contemporary Art in Vilafamés officially opened its doors on August 18, 1972, featuring 150 works. Today, this hidden gem boasts an impressive collection of almost 700 works of art, featuring artists who are pioneers of the artistic avant-garde, both nationally and internationally. Jean Michel Basquiat, Antoni Tàpies, Robert Motherwell, Andy Warhol, David Hockney, Dora Maar, Pablo Picasso, Miquel Barceló, Eduardo Chillida… just to name a few!
The collection's unique management model, relying on donations or loans from the artists themselves, makes it a pioneer in its approach.
An important chapter in the museum's history unfolds during Pinochet’s brutal coup and dictatorship in Chile, linking it to the "Museo de la Solidaridad" in Santiago de Chile.
The Museo de la Solidaridad, originally founded in 1971 during the presidency of Salvador Allende, aimed to promote solidarity and cultural exchange among nations. Unfortunately, the military coup led by Pinochet on September 11, 1973, cut its existence short. The collection was seized, and the museum was closed. Yet, the staff and supporters managed to save a significant portion of the artworks, smuggling them out of the country.
In a symbolic act of resistance, the Museo de la Solidaridad transformed into a "museum in exile", finding temporary shelter at MACVAC. Aguilera Cerni played a crucial role in preserving and exhibiting the artworks during the years of exile. If he had managed to open a Contemporary Art Museum in Franco’s Spain, who was this Pinochet person to close the Solidarity Museum!
With the return of democracy in Chile in the late 1980s, efforts were made to recover the dispersed collection, marking a symbolic victory over censorship and repression.
Coinciding with the 50 year anniversary of the coup and death of Salvador Allende, the end of 2023 saw the return of the last artworks to Chile, finally restoring them to their rightful place.
The Museo de la Solidaridad Salvador Allende continues its operation today, focusing on promoting cultural diversity, human rights, and international solidarity through exhibitions and educational programs. This history reflects the resilience of cultural institutions in the face of political adversity and the enduring importance of art in preserving the collective memory of a nation.
Committed to defending freedom and fighting oppression, MACVAC collaborates with "The Art of Resistance," a joint initiative between the Ukrainian artistic community and Spanish people. Curated by Svitlana Davydenko, a refugee in Spain since March 2022, this exhibition project amplifies the voices of Ukrainian artists denouncing crimes against humanity in their homeland.
Svitlana's social work involves bringing these works of guerrilla and cultural resistance to various platforms, including artists, curators, cultural critics, museums, galleries, universities, and students. This collaboration showcases the transformative power of art as a front of struggle, solidarity, and resistance against the Russian invasion.
We absolutely love this museum, the building, the setting, its values and of course, the artworks. Specially as it all comes to live when Joan –curator and manager of the MACVAC– and Adrián take their time to personally show it to us!
WeYou can visit Vilafamés and the MACVAC Museum with us on our Spanish Wonders and Culinary Delights tour
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